Mar 1

Mar 1 JOHN WELLMANN VISITS VIENNA

JOHN WELLMANN IS A MASTER INSTRUCTOR AND THE DIRECTOR OF TRAINING AT FLYWHEEL SPORTS. HE IS ALSO ONE OF THE MOST ENTHUSIASTIC, ENGAGED AND CURIOUS PEOPLE WE KNOW. WHEN HE RETURNED FROM A TRIP TO VIENNA IN OCTOBER SAYING IT WAS MAYBE THE MOST INCREDIBLE PLACE HE HAD EVER BEEN, WE KNEW WE HAD TO HAVE HIM GIVE US HIS SELECTS. THEY ARE, AS EXPECTED, FLAWLESS.

First let me just say that while Vienna isn't considered a bucket list destination like Paris or Rome, I will boldly state that I have never seen a more consistently beautiful world capital than The Imperial City. Every block in every area is clean, colorful, grand and idiosyncratic. I was flabbergasted by this city and I will absolutely plan a return visit.

THE CAFE AT THE KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM

1. RINGSTRASSE
Everyone will tell you to take the tour of the Ringstrasse and you should. It is a circular boulevard surrounding the city centre and almost all of Vienna's stunning and majestic state buildings are here. There is a tourist tram that does the circle but this is what I would recommend you do: since all of the things to see are in the first half of the circle, start at the Borse Palais at the top of the Ringstrasse and walk counter clockwise past the Votivkirche, Rathaus, Burgtheater, Parliament, Volkstheatre and ending at the superb Staastoper (the opera house). And then jump on the tram #2 to do the rest of the ring from a window seat.

2. KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Maria-Theresien-Platz, 1010
+43 1 52 52 40
There are masterpieces in every single room of this huge and stupendous museum. But I found it difficult to even look at the art because of the sumptuousness of the neoclassical building itself. If I lived in Vienna I would be in this museum every week. If you go here, and you must must must go here - you have to have a snack or a drink at the cafe. On Thursday nights they do a "gourmet evening" with a tasting menu. When I go back I will totally do this.

3. WEIDEN RESTAURANTS
Just south of the opera house is Vienna's nifty, fashionable and fun 4th district, Weiden. The main attractions here at the Naschmarkt (an absolute must for foodies) and the magnificent Karlskirche, a baroque splendor. But my recommendation here is the restaurants in this area. Only Viennese dine here and you will experience Vienna's cuisine exactly as the locals do at any number of spots in this area. I recommend Gasthaus Ubl for the stereotypical but totally satisfying Weiner Schnitzel or Cafe Amacord for the cozy ambiance, friendly staff and diverse menu.

4. HOFBURG PALACE
Michaelerkuppel, 1010
+43 1 53 37 570
You will simply have to explore the Hofburg Palace. It is a whole complex of buildings and contains museums, imperial rooms, chapels, the famous Spanish Riding School, the Habsburg crown jewels etc. If you only have a little but of time you can skip a lot of the attractions but you should wander around the area and just wonder at how incredibly beautiful every square inch of this place is. And then I will say that there is one spot you just can't miss - the Nationalbibliothek Prunksaal. It's basically just a library. But what a library. Just go. You'll see.

5. Coffee Houses and Cake Shops
There is no point in going to Vienna if you're not going to spend substantial time in their coffee houses. I will go ahead and recommend the two most famous because I went to both and they are both so wonderful that to go off the beaten track here would just be a useless exercise; Café Sperl (Gumpendorfer Str. 11, 1060; +43 1 58 64 158) and Café Central (Herrengasse 14, 1010; +43 1 53 33 763). If you only go to one then make it Central.

The cake shop that requires your indulgences is Demel. Of course the strudel and Sacher Torte are justly the stereotype but you won't believe the black forest cake.

6. STEPHANSDOM & THE HISTORIC CENTRE
The Stephansdom Cathedral is the definitive structure of Vienna. It's awesome. The historic area around the cathedral presents a perfect combination of shopping, dining, sight seeing, people watching, museum going and opportunities for personal discovery. My favorite discoveries were the Adolp Loos public toilets on the street called Graben (the greatest public restroom on earth), the profound Holocaust-Denkel memorial and the exquisite Am Hof square. Every inch of this area is visually postcard perfect.

7. SCHLOSS BELVEDERE
Prinz Eugen-Straße 27, 1030
+43 1 79 55 71 34
The two palaces in all the guidebooks are Schloss Belvedere and Schloss Schonbrunn. They are both flawless but I will rate Belvedere above Schonbrunn because it is easier to get to, has a museum with Klimt's not-to-be-missed The Kiss, and tons of other masterpieces, exquisite gardens that are easily walkable and the whole place was inspired by Versailles. We were at the Belvedere on a very sunny day and it was as perfect an experience as I will ever hope to have.

Just to the north of the Belvedere is Stadtpark. It is a real park for real Viennese and I liked walking through it pretending I live in Vienna and enjoying all of the glamour and prestige that implies.